Well Traveled: Ireland

Grand estates, wild landscapes, Irish makers, and memorable meals

Last updated: July 2026

Ireland has a way of making grandeur feel personal. During our time there, we moved from meticulously restored country houses to limestone landscapes, cliff roads, makers’ studios, medieval ruins, and one extraordinary dinner in a Dublin home. The itinerary was expertly arranged by Louisa Vann of Louisa Vann Travel, and her planning gave us the rare luxury of seeing a great deal without feeling as though we were simply checking places off a list.

We also had the same driver throughout the trip. Beyond making the route remarkably efficient, it meant getting to know someone whose recommendations—especially one unforgettable rotisserie chicken in Kilkenny—became part of the trip itself.

I had prepared for classic Irish weather and even bought this trench for the trip. Instead, we had unusually beautiful weather from beginning to end, and it never left my suitcase. I would still pack for rain, of course. Ireland simply decided to be generous with us.

Our Ireland Route

·     Ballyfin, County Laois: two nights, with a day in Kilkenny

·     Adare Manor, County Limerick: three nights, with the Rock of Cashel, the Burren, the Cliffs of Moher, and Scattery Island

·     Killarney, County Kerry: two nights, traveling by way of the Dingle Peninsula

·     Dublin: one final night before flying home

If I learned one planning lesson, it is this: do not underestimate scheduled downtime on any trip. It is not wasted time. A slower lunch, an afternoon on the grounds, or an hour with nowhere particular to be can become the part that allows everything else to sink in.

Ballyfin Demesne: A World Apart

Ballyfin Demesne is every bit as extraordinary as it looks. “Demesne” refers to the historic house together with the estate land surrounding it, and at Ballyfin the word feels fitting: the restored Regency house sits within 614 acres at the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, yet Ballyfin has just 21 rooms and private suites. The result feels intimate and entirely removed from ordinary life.

Our room was simply stunning—individually designed, richly layered, and full of the sort of proportion and detail that makes you slow down and look. The interiors throughout the house were a highlight for me: the grand staircase, the library, the art, the fabrics, and the quiet transitions from one room to the next all felt considered.

We took it easy on our first night with dinner in The Cellar Bar, a relaxed space tucked into the former servants’ hall. The next day we explored the vast grounds by golf cart, wandering through the walled gardens, fernery, and Edwardian rock garden before climbing the stone tower that rises above the estate like a storybook folly.

Lunch in The Conservatory was another favorite. Designed by Richard Turner and added in 1848 as an orangery, the glass room is hidden behind a bookcase in the library—an entrance with exactly the right amount of theatre. Even in spring, the gardens beyond it were beautiful.

Our final dinner was in Ballyfin’s Michelin-starred restaurant. It was a long tasting experience, as these dinners often are, but a fantastic one, rooted in seasonal Irish ingredients, estate-grown produce, and local suppliers. Ballyfin received Three Michelin Keys as a hotel, but the accolades are almost beside the point. It genuinely feels like another world.

A Day in Kilkenny

From Ballyfin, we spent a day in Kilkenny, beginning with Kilkenny Castle, the medieval landmark long associated with the Butler family. We walked part of the Medieval Mile, including the arched Butter Slip and St Canice’s Cathedral, then browsed the Kilkenny Design Centre for Irish ceramics, pottery, silver, and other work by local makers.

Lunch was at Rive Gauche, where our driver recommended the rotisserie half chicken. I still think about it.

The Rock of Cashel, Then On to Adare

Leaving Ballyfin, we stopped at the Rock of Cashel. It is unquestionably a major visitor site, but one I found completely worth seeing: the medieval buildings rise dramatically above the surrounding countryside, and the views are spectacular. I recommend purchasing the additional guided admission for Cormac’s Chapel, whose fragile medieval interior is accessible only by timed tour.

Afterward, we had an excellent lunch at Mikey Ryan’s Bar & Kitchen in Cashel and continued on to Adare.

Adare Manor: Every Detail, Exactly Right

Adare Manor was astonishing. We stayed three nights, and I would return in a heartbeat. The present manor house is a 19th-century Neo-Gothic transformation of an earlier Georgian residence; work began in 1832, and by the 1860s it had become the romantic, turreted house that stands today. Among its many accolades, the hotel holds Three Michelin Keys.

Our room was remarkable: generous, beautifully furnished, and quietly theatrical, with a bathroom that felt like a destination of its own. For my birthday, the hotel left a surprise cake and treats in the room—one of many thoughtful gestures that made the stay feel personal despite the grandeur.

We explored the formal gardens immediately outside the manor, wandered portions of the 840-acre estate, and stocked up on 2027 Ryder Cup pieces for the golfers in my family. Adare Manor will host the event in September 2027.

The Oak Room, led by Head Chef Michael Tweedie, holds a Michelin star. We are often happier in a hole-in-the-wall restaurant than at a formal tasting dinner, but this meal was lovely from start to finish. Chef Tweedie surprised me by signing the menu as a birthday present, making the evening even more memorable. We also enjoyed relaxed dinners in the Drawing Room and at the Carriage House on the following nights.

A small but emphatic Ireland-wide note: eat the bread and butter. The butter was consistently wonderful everywhere we went. Do not skip it.

One less essential but equally enthusiastic food note: the potato crisps. I conducted a very unofficial taste test, and there were several great options, but Tayto Cheese & Onion was the winner for me.

The Burren, Irish Perfumery, Sheepdogs, and the Cliffs of Moher

One full day from Adare took us through the Burren, a vast, otherworldly landscape of exposed limestone, deep fissures, and unexpected plant life. It is spare, rocky, and completely distinctive.

At The Burren Perfumery, I will admit I was not initially sure how interested I would be. Then we took a private tour and became fascinated by the chemistry of fragrance—how top, heart, and base notes unfold at different rates and are layered into a finished perfume. Perhaps that was my pharmacist background showing, but my husband and I both loved this stop. I brought home more than a few things, and the cookies in the onsite Tea Rooms were delicious.

We saw Poulnabrone Dolmen, the iconic portal tomb set high in the Burren, before a private sheepdog demonstration at Caherconnell. Watching Lee, Lynn, Rose, and Jess respond to individual whistle commands was extraordinary—and I got to hold a baby lamb.

Lunch at Vaughan’s Anchor Inn brought fish and chips that rivaled the best I have had in London. We finished at the Cliffs of Moher. You do not need hours there to understand their scale. The cliffs were breathtaking, the weather was clear, and a fiddler playing as we walked uphill made the entire scene feel almost surreal.

Scattery Island and the Shannon Estuary

The following day brought one of the most personal experiences of the trip: a private cruise on the Shannon Estuary and a tour of Scattery Island with Irene Hamilton. Her father was among the last children born on the now-uninhabited island, and she shared its history through stories passed down within her family.

The island sits within the Lower River Shannon Special Area of Conservation. Irene and her husband are restoring the lightkeeper’s cottage and hope to live there, returning to her ancestral home. The daisies were in bloom and looked like a carpet rolled out ahead of us. The air was glorious, Irene and her husband were extraordinarily kind, and the whole day felt like an invitation into a place we never could have understood in the same way on our own.

The Dingle Peninsula: Slea Head and the Makers I Loved

We left Adare one final time and drove the Dingle Peninsula, where the road traces cliffs above waves breaking against the coast. Slea Head Drive is every bit as beautiful as its reputation suggests, and the town of Dingle itself is colorful, compact, and charming.

Dingle’s makers were as memorable as its scenery. These were my favorite stops:

·     Louis Mulcahy Pottery for locally made pottery and a studio stop along the peninsula.

·     Dingle Crystal, founded by master craftsman Seán Daly after his years of training at Waterford Crystal. The family still cuts its crystal by hand, and we had several pieces shipped home.

·     Lisbeth Mulcahy’s Siopa na bhFíodóirí / The Weavers’ Shop, where I bought a few pieces of Irish knitwear. Two labels to note are Edmund McNulty—the sweater I bought was hand-finished—and Fisherman Out of Ireland.

·     The Original Kerry Craft Centre, where I found pottery by David Holden, who works with clay and minerals sourced from the Dingle Peninsula.

·     The Coach House, an interiors and Irish design shop shaped by owner and interior designer Gráinne Kavanagh’s eye.

Killarney: A Charming Base for the National Park

Killarney is charming, walkable, and particularly convenient for exploring the national park. We stayed at The Killarney Park, where our garden suite happened to use the same William Morris fabric I have on a pillow in our mudroom. I took that as a good sign from the beginning.

We walked into town for dinner both nights and made the essential stop at Murphy’s Ice Cream. The Dingle Sea Salt flavor is a must: Murphy’s makes the salt from Dingle seawater collected at Bín Bán Beach.

Our private tour of Killarney National Park included a traditional horse-drawn jaunting car—not a motor vehicle—and time at Muckross House and Gardens. The grounds were beautiful, and Ross Castle looked as though it belonged in a novel.

The highlight was a private tour of the ruins of Muckross Abbey. A centuries-old yew still grows in the central courtyard, rising from within the cloister and making the entire ruin feel alive. We also stopped at Ladies View, named for Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting, who admired the panorama during the royal visit of 1861.

One Final Night in Dublin

We ended with one final day and night in Dublin at The Westbury. Dublin is lovely, but this trip was a reminder that Ireland opens up in an entirely different way once you move beyond the capital.

That afternoon, I browsed the galleries and antique shops along Francis Street, Dublin’s Art and Antiques Quarter. That evening, we were welcomed into the home of a celebrated Michelin-starred Irish chef and his wife, where he prepared a beautiful meal in front of us. As memorable as the food was, what stayed with me most was how kind and welcoming they both were—and how personal the evening felt.

I had not known exactly what to expect from dinner in a chef’s home—and it ended up being the perfect close to the trip.

One Last Practical Tip: Dublin U.S. Preclearance

For eligible direct flights from Dublin to the United States, U.S. Preclearance allows passengers to complete U.S. immigration, customs, and agriculture checks before departure. That means you generally arrive in the United States as a domestic passenger, avoiding the usual immigration line and making onward connections much smoother. Not every flight participates, so confirm with your airline and allow plenty of time at Dublin Airport.

What Is Still on My Ireland List

We skipped Blarney Castle this time, but Blarney Woollen Mills is firmly on my next-trip list, as is Galway. I would also love to visit more Irish design sources—Mullan Lighting is one Ireland-based maker I already follow and love.

We did not reach Northern Ireland on this trip. As someone long fascinated by Titanic’s history, Titanic Belfast is at the top of the list for next time.

Final Thoughts

There are trips that feel full because of how much you saw, and others that feel full because of how deeply you experienced each place. Ireland managed to be both. Ballyfin and Adare were unforgettable, but so were the smaller moments: a driver’s lunch recommendation, cookies at a perfumery, whistles carrying across a sheep field, daisies on an island, a fiddler near the cliffs, and a dinner in someone’s home.

I would repeat much of this route exactly—and still leave room to wander.

— Lauren